Mountain Gorilla Trekking

Mountain gorillas survive in just two places on Earth: the Virunga volcanoes that straddle Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda's Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Fewer than 1,100 individuals remain, which makes a permitted encounter with a habituated family one of the most carefully managed wildlife experiences anywhere. Trekking begins early at a park briefing, after which a ranger team leads small groups into terrain that ranges from gentle bamboo slopes to steep, root-tangled rainforest.

The trek itself is unpredictable. Trackers set out at dawn to locate the family from where it nested the night before, and the walk to reach them can take anything from forty minutes to the better part of a day. The reward is a strictly timed hour in the gorillas' company: a silverback the weight of two grown men resting in dappled light, mothers grooming infants, juveniles tumbling through the undergrowth. Visitors keep a respectful distance and follow their guide's lead at all times.

Permits are limited and sold per person per trek, with prices set by each country's wildlife authority. They are the single largest contributor to the conservation programmes that have, against the odds, seen gorilla numbers slowly climb. Booking well ahead is essential, particularly in the dry seasons, and a portion of every fee is shared with the communities living alongside the parks.

This is a demanding day in equatorial highland conditions, but few who make the climb regret a moment of it. A reasonable level of fitness, sturdy boots and a willingness to get muddy go a long way; porters are available to carry bags and lend a steadying hand on the slipperiest sections.